A little birdie once told me about a safari-style shuttle that escorts one from winery to winery, to indulge in all the gorgeous wines the Hemel-en-Aarde has to offer, minus the worry of selecting a designated driver - no one's thirst shall remain unquenched. I am delighted that I met this little birdie. . .
The Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and Ridge is aptly named as it is a meeting place of heaven-and-earth, and for the lucky folk who call Hermanus home, this valley is just a sip away. A mere 7km takes you to the start of the Valley where you'll find the Wine Village (with a brilliant selection of local, national and international wines).
The first Wine Hoppers stop took us to Hermanuspietersfontein, which is rich in history with a personal touch; their wines don quirky Afrikaans names - each with a unique story. "This is wine business, not show business," says CEO and Head Winemaker, Wilhelm Pienaar. Their wines are acclaimed without submitting to any awards. Top picks include 'Kat met die Houtbeen' - Cat with the Wooden Leg (wooded Sauvignon blanc), 'Swartskaap' - Black Sheep (Cabernet franc) and 'Kleinboet' - Little Brother (Cabernet Sauvignon blend). Listening to the warm and welcoming staff you cannot help but 'Smile Mêrim Smile'.
The next stop, as picked by our Canadian friends on the shuttle, was Bouchard Finlayson. Peter Finlayson is known as the SA pioneer of internationally-acclaimed Pinot Noir. Gulpin Peak and Tête de Cuvée are amongst the finest Pinot Noirs that the country produces, as well as award-winning Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blanc, Blanc de Mer (White of the Sea), and their exceptional blend Hannibal (Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Shiraz, Barbera and Mourvédre). Bouchard Finlayson has a wonderful historic feel with the option of having atmospheric tastings within the cellar. There are also lovely shaded tables outside overlooking the vineyards.
Another winery with blissful views is La Vierge - even the loo's have views. The name La Vierge translates to The Virgin as the land was untouched before being farmed. Things are done differently here, as there is no implementation of irrigation and the vines are watered as nature intended it. Consequently, the harvest is less but the flavour is believed to be more - definitely a tasty experience of fine wines and amazing food at B's Stro with the top steaks in town. The theme of the winery is the Garden of Eden, Heaven-and-Earth, and temptation. You will desire their well-awarded Jezebelle Chardonnay, Original Sin Sauvignon Blanc, Apogée Chardonnay, The Affair Pinot Noir, La Vierge Noir, Nymphomane, Royal Nymphomane, Apogée Pinot Noir and The Seduction Pinot Noir.
Also farmed on untouched land and with a wonderful vantage from above, Newton Johnson Vineyard's tasting room and award-winning restaurant overlook vineyards, the valley and the ocean in the near distance - which is responsible for the slow ripening and distinct flavours of the area's grapes. Newton Johnson's Family Vineyard has produced praiseworthy wines of which their Pinot Noir is their flagship, receiving many 5 star Platter ratings since the first vintage of 2008. The Family Vineyard Pinot Noir, as well as their single vineyard Pinot Noir, Seadragon, have been on the cover of Decanter magazine in the UK. The 2019 Windansea Pinot Noir was Pinot noir of the year and the 2019 Family Vineyards Chardonnay was Chardonnay of the year in the 2021 Platter's Guide. They are also the first farm in South Africa to plant the Spanish white grape cultivar, Albarino - with a Riesling-like florality and complexity.
Creation not only flaunts flavour with award-winning wines, but is also well-known for their dining experience of food and wine pairings. Enjoy a 5-course food and wine pairing, a wine and chocolate pairing, or a non-alcoholic pairing of luxury TWG teas and cuisine. Beautiful sculptures are on display in the gardens, as Creation collaborates with local artists to showcase their work. Creation won the 2021 Most Innovative Wine Estate in South Africa and Global, in the Great Wine Capitals of the World Awards. A lengthy list of their accolades can be found on their website, or better yet pop in to taste why they are bustling.
Our last stop, the mystical Spookfontein, encompasses architecture that meets nature with large windows to take in serene surroundings. Named after a spirit that can allegedly be seen in the fountain after rainfall, Spookfontein has a magical earthy feel. With award-winning wines and a delectable menu, as well as charming cottages to get a taste of farm-living - with cosy fire-places, I'll be back for a longer visit soon.
With only so many hours in one day and so many incredible wineries to indulge in, as we came to a stop back in town, I knew I'd be visiting more. . .
After returning on a Saturday to Hermanuspietersfontein for their Country Market, Die Markie, and a second round of tastings, we ventured to nearby Whalehaven. The 3rd oldest wine producer in the Valley, they celebrate our Southern Right Whales that visit Hermanus annually as a safe breeding haven. Whalehaven produces top notch French varieties, of which their Merlot and Cabernet Franc is well-acclaimed. They are the owners of Wine Hoppers and the lovely Ilse-Joy is lyrical in her tales of the Valley, quoting Stevenson that "wine is bottled poetry."
Praised by the public as some of the top SA wines, Hamilton Russell Vineyard's Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are their sole-focus, produced using only estate fruit from their maritime slow-ripened grapes. The release of their 2020 vintages marks their 40th vintage. The same years of expertise are savoured in their sister farms' wines. Southern Right and Ashbourne focus on pinotage and sauvignon blanc - with Ashbourne using these as the basis for their beautiful blends. Ashbourne can be tasted at Hamilton Russell Vineyards, and Southern Right at the Wine Village. Hamilton Russell Vineyards also produces extra virgin olive oil and honey harvested from their hives on the estate. To wine-hop on over, please make prior arrangements with Wine Hoppers.
Another wondrous wine farm on the Hoppers' route, Bosman Hermanus is big on conservation. Rare fynbos can be found on the property while meandering on the two hiking trails with an informative field guide. The beautiful Frame House provides seating with views, from where to taste and enjoy their fine wines. Of their many noteworthy wines, vintages consistently perform and achieve accolades from the likes of Platter Wines and Tim Atkin SA Reports.
Adorned with awards, alongside their Josephine Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, aged Sauvignon Blanc and Petit Rosé, Domaine Des Dieux's flagship Claudia Brut MCC and Rose of Sharon Brut Rosé MCC are simply divine. A pioneer in their own right, Domaine Des Dieux is the very first winery to produce MCC in the area - and delectably so.
Ataraxia will delight your heart with their quaint chapel with the backdrop of towering Babylon's Tower Mountains. The wine guru, Tim Atkin, gave all of their wines - their Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Black Chardonnay 2020, Organic Chardonnay 2020, Pinot Noir 2017, and Serenity 2018 - a well-earned score of 90 points and above.
I strongly recommend an individual visit to each of these wineries, and what easier way to do so than when you're living local.